As summer comes to a close, I can’t believe it will be seven years in November that Sam and I first started working on what would become MM. We learned so much in those first two years, running a custom business on nights, weekends and holidays. We’d come home from work at 6:30, watch old housewives and sew/pattern/drape/embellish until wee hours of the morning. Every night for two years.

I learned invaluable lessons about how women want to feel when they put on a special piece of clothing. Most women want to feel confident, comfortable and interesting enough, not the center of attention. I found the sweet spot of design to be both classic and original, but not so much that you feel like the disco ball in the middle of the party.

How the Custom Business Started

So many people ask me, how did you even start your custom business? Well, I handed out my business cards to everyone I met and waited by my phone. Everyone was so inspired by my sketches that after a few patient weeks, my phone started ringing off the hook and the rest was history. KIDDING. THAT IS NOT HOW STARTING A BUSINESS WORKS OR FEELS AT ALL. Despite the dozens of PR manufactured stories that start with that line.

I had to beg my friends to let me sew them a dress. Beg. This was 2016. Surprisingly, even then, not everyone wanted to be the star of their own Instagram account. Taking photos by yourself at an event was considered out of taste for some. I had a few gracious friends that let me sew them a dress for an event. But I learned I was going to have to schlep my wears myself. Something I was not keen on doing. Below are a few of my very first designs.

The first (honestly) eight months was really, really humbling. But eventually, after dozens of failed leads and halfhearted inquiries, I met my first serious custom client, who I am happy to still call a friend. She was my first custom client who really, really believed in the vision. We sewed her daughter an array of custom outfits for her debutante season. From there, it truly grew. Never underestimate what one person’s real support can do for your confidence.

What Women Actually Want in a Special Piece

I learned that women want color and quality fabric. Those are the two most important components. It’s funny that our print business didn’t start until we were firmly in our running line business, and all our custom was solid. They wanted streamlined, simple designs that are flattering. To this day I still think the majority of special occasion custom clothing is best in solid fabrics.

Fabric and Fit Lessons

Lightweight, unlined styles are not your friend if they skim close to the body.

Never ship or check a wedding dress on a plane. Always carry on.

Silk faille will wrinkle like crazy if it’s not fused. I once made a custom purple strapless unfused dress for my birthday to wear to dinner at The Grill (see below). I looked like a crumpled purple napkin within two minutes of sitting down at the table. It’s funny how learning all those design lessons early on during custom are the most valuable tools I have.

On Taste, and Red Flags

Just because it gets a lot of likes on Instagram, doesn’t mean it’s sophisticated. The algorithm likes dresses that look like “everything but the kitchen sink” as we would call it in the design world. The more classic and chic you dress, the less the internet will respond.

If someone tells you, “nothing fits their body” and can “only wear custom”, that is an upstairs issue that no custom couture will be able to fit. Red flag.

Stains, Veils and Storage

Dawn Soap gets stains out of any variety of silk. I once had a custom client email me during a wedding to tell me her small daughter vomited on her skirt and what I would do to handle it. I responded politely, Dawn.

Never overpay for a tulle veil. You’d be sick to your stomach if you knew how much it costs a yard.

Black is an extremely overrated color to prioritize in your wardrobe. It shouldn’t be a staple. There’s nothing worse than three different shades of black worn together.

Store light colored dresses in dark garment bags. They’ll yellow over time no matter what, but dark bags will help.

What Dry Cleaning Actually Is

Dry cleaning isn’t a dry process. It’s a wet chemical called “perc”. Most “organic” or “natural” dry cleaning services are gimmicks. Befriend your dry cleaner. Point out to them stains on garments. Don’t assume they’ll find them on their own.

xx, MM