I thought it would be fun today to do a really nerdy production deep dive on fit. I receive tons of questions on social about sizing up, sizing down, consistent sizing, vanity sizing, not being able to find your size, ect. I’m not an expert in everything, but on the subject of how clothing sizes are determined, I know my stuff. Let’s geek out today and get into the nitty gritty about fit.

Why do clothing brands run big or small?

1. The size of the fit model. Plain and simple. Most clothing brands try everything on a human at least once. A small brand might try everything on a founder. Most large brands (hopefully) try everything on a professional fit model. Fit models have their own agencies like every other type of represented agency. A fit model is not a runway model. Or should I say, should not be a runway model. A runway model is 5’10-6’1 and a fit model is around 5’7-5’8. A fit model can be a 00 or a 2 depending on how the brand prefers their base size to fit and who their target demographic is. Fit models are fit experts. A good fit model is equal parts patternmaker, grader and designer. They’re so talented at spotting when there’s a fit error. Whether it’s a tight armhole or a bust curve that’s flattened through the apex, they’ll feel it. A professional production fit model is essential in any quality clothing brand. If a brand runs really small, they’re doing it intentionally because they want small/young customers. It’s very, very easy to hear feedback and adjust production to fit better. Always a choice.

2. Alpha sizing or lots of jumps in size breaks. More “mass market” clothing brands tend to run larger because they have more grading between size breaks. If a huge company is selling a XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL, L, XXL, 2X, ect, it’s really important to understand they’re skipping sizes. A dress can only spec one size. So they’re selling a 00, 2, 6, 10, 14, 18, 22 and calling them XXS, XS, S, ect. This is to pay for less markers and capture more customers. The more you scale, the more all of these elements cost. That’s why cheaper brands tend to have all their products in alpha sizing. Sometimes for really boxy, not fitted clothing, it’s completely appropriate to have alpha sizing. For tailored dresses and pants, it’s not.

3. Celebrities are micro tiny. I’m talking way smaller than a 00. If a brand is gifting celebrities and influencers like candy, their smallest size needs to be minuscule to fit celebrities off the rack. If a celebrity has to go through the trouble of tailoring clothing (other than for a huge red carpet) they won’t bother wearing it. So the only way to have a fighting chance is to have a “celebrity size” at the ready. A brand of course could have a special gifting size. Or they can just run really, really small and capitalize on the press for marketing.

Should I size up for more length?

No! Grading doesn’t work that way. Every spec (bust, waist, hip circumference, inseam, shoulder width, ect) grades differently. Not every measurement increases or decreases the same amount through each size. Most bust/waist/hip increases 1/2”-1” between each size up or down, until size 14”. Then after size 14”, the grading jumps change completely because bodies change alot faster between sizes. But length doesn’t increase at the same rate. The majority of humans don’t get that much taller as they get bigger. Their bust also doesn’t increase as largely. If you don’t like the length, don’t buy it in a size that doesn’t fit. It’s not for you.

What should I tell my tailor?

I have no idea! Everyone’s body is completely different. There are absolutely no universal tailoring tricks. Here’s what I do know. Get yourself one. If the thought of a tailor is expensive to you, or you think expensive clothing shouldn’t have to be tailored, think again. I’d rather you only buy clothes from Gap and tailor them then stretch your budget and wear expensive designer items that don’t fit your body. Everyone. needs. to. tailor. their. clothes. No exceptions.

Here’s one trick. You can tailor anything that’s a little too big. It’s really, really hard to tailor something that’s too small. Clothing hasn’t had generous seam allowance for 50 years. The rent is too d(*& high to expect enough seam allowance to allot for letting seams out. That’s also a bad plan. Any delicate fabric will show stitch lines once let out.

It’s also why we run on the larger end of a size. If you purchase a shift and it’s slightly too big, that’s a dream to tailor perfectly to your body. Maybe just your shoulders are really narrow. Or you like a short shift. A quick trip to the tailor is your best friend. You wouldn’t believe how tight and short I’ve seen people tailor a 00 MM shift in front of me in 20 minutes at the tailor. There’s no right way. To each their own.

xx,

MM